Some things right off the bat: it doesn't look like your dad's china anymore. If you just looked at the buildings, you'd think it was some new place in EU or a new version of new york. If you looked at the people, you might think HK. Definitely not what I expected for china. At least from what I saw, it's much less crowded than NY (where you constantly feel as if you are drowning in meat) or even downtown SF. And the air was clean, which seems impossible, but there you have it.
And the people had their pluses and minuses. I'm still not used to nicely dressed females clearing their throats like truck drivers and casually spitting on the floor inside a building. And the matter of fact way that Beijing people lie is startling. If you ask a question that they are too lazy to find the answer too will cost them money it seems fairly standard to lie right to your face. One example: a guide was trying to get us to go see some tourist thing, but we told him we were going to the forbidden city --- "Oh, you can't do that, they close at 3pm!" Which, of course, was complete bullshit. And thing was, it was trivially easy to falsify this claim since the gate was just 10 yards away. Stupid. Another favorite: if you ask a question they don't want to answer they just look away. Example again: taxi drivers parked by the side of the road "Are you working now?" which triggers no response and a studious look to the side.
Right off the plane, you can see a trend:
The airport is huge, with lots of space, and clean: